From the outside it seems to be an act of charity: worn clothing from Europe is sent to Africa, where it ends as cheap goods in local markets. But in Uganda there is another reality.
“About 60 percent of the imported clothing is of poor quality and is delivered together with reusable clothing. What is not sold ends up on landfills or clogs,” says Faith Irene Lanyyero, secretary -general of the textile worker union utglawu in Uganda. The effects are catastrophic: in August 2024 a garbage mountain of the overloaded kite Geez died after heavy rainfall fell on the surrounding houses. 21 people died.
80,000 tons of old clothing ends up in Uganda
Uganda imports around 80,000 tons of second -hand clothing from Europe every year. These import move local textile production and strengthen the informal sector. “Acting with used clothing has an estimated 700,000 people, especially women and young people who work under precarious circumstances,” Lanyero emphasizes. “Gender -specific exploitation and lack of representation are widespread.”
The reasons for the market power of the old clothing are diverse. Many people in Uganda regard clothing from Europe as of higher quality than local products. The price has been added to this: For many it is the only affordable way to dress. But the price for the country is high.
Gertrude Kaffenböck, coordinator of the Clean Clos campaign in Austria and textile expert at Südwind, warns: “Fast fashion is based on constant new, cheap collections and extremely fast consumer behavior. Austria is an important sales market for this business model.”
Transparency of the commercial currents
In 2022, according to official data in Austria, 228,100 tons of textile waste was made. Around 67,000 tons were exported, including approximately 42,000 tons for reuse. The final goals of these exports usually remain unclear what a structural problem is, according to Kaffenböck: “The lack of transparency of the trade flows is one of the core problems in the old clothing trade. The export of Austria also ends up on African markets.”
Despite these dramatic developments, there are political opportunities for the turn. In the future, companies will be responsible in the future for the ecological and human rights consequences of their products along the entire supply chain with the EU Lief Chain Act (CSDDD), the Ecodesign Control (ESPR) and the responsibility of the manufacturer (EPR). But the implementation is in danger. The Economic Minister of Austria, Wolfgang Hattmannsdorfer, openly expressed himself against the CSDDD.
“If these rules fail, fashion remains untouched – with devastating consequences for countries such as Uganda,” said Kaffenböck.
Stricter rates as a solution
What remains is a global imbalance. “Stricter customs laws, better quality assurance and fair working conditions would be urgently necessary,” says Lanyero. But consumers in Europe are also responsible. “Buy less, wear clothes longer and make sure that the removal clothing is really recyclable – these are the first steps,” she explains.
Kaffenböck adds: “Awareness and education are crucial. The question, buying or not buying?” Is not only an individual, but also a political decision. “
Uganda is an example of many countries in the worldwide south that suffer from the effects of European overproduction and textile power of waste. While cupboards in Europe fill each other every month, markets, environment and social structures collapse elsewhere. And all this – under the guise of sustainability.
Source: Krone
I’m Ben Stock, a journalist and author at Today Times Live. I specialize in economic news and have been working in the news industry for over five years. My experience spans from local journalism to international business reporting. In my career I’ve had the opportunity to interview some of the world’s leading economists and financial experts, giving me an insight into global trends that is unique among journalists.
