Najima Akkar creates her own line of traditional Moroccan dresses for weddings and parties with a wide variety of fabrics, embroidery and beads
From the Ottoman Empire to the Murcia region, through Morocco, the kaftan has arrived. This traditional dress, characterized by its gold thread embroidery and shining gems, is worn by Moroccan women living in the region of Murcia during their weddings and special events. To learn more about this legendary garment, THE TRUTH went to the stylist Najima Akkar, known on social networks under the name of her brand: Ziana Afrah Al Hanae.
Born in Oujda (Northern Morocco), Akkar arrived in Spain in 2006, bringing with her a profession she inherited from her parents, who practiced what they call “tanagaft” in Arabic, meaning to take care of everything what a Moroccan bride needs. on the different days of the wedding. The main element of this celebration is the kaftan.
The stylist has created her own brand of traditional Moroccan costumes from Cartagena, so that they are present at the celebrations of the more than one hundred thousand Moroccans living in the region of Murcia. These have several ballrooms with oriental decoration in Torre Pacheco, Cartagena, Murcia and Cieza. So according to the trends in fabrics, colors, embroidery, beading, lace and cuts, Akkar designs the dresses and sends them to Morocco to be made. “Group work on both shores of the Mediterranean,” she says with satisfaction.
A dozen Murcian brides of Arab descent rely on Najima Akkar every month to look spectacular at their wedding.
The caftan has its own fashion, but is sometimes also influenced by international trends, for example in terms of color. Orange was a trend in spring-summer 2022, although it is not common to see these tunics with such bright colors.
In 2023, the color will be the so-called ‘royal white’, as it is the tone that is not lacking in the weddings of the Moroccan royal family, regardless of what is styled throughout the country. “It kind of brought back the ’80s fashion, with the wide sleeves and a sheer white veil,” says Akkar. “With new designs but with the essence of always”, the stylist notes. This trend reminds us of the white kaftan Queen Letizia wore during her visit to Morocco in 2019, which several media outlets pointed out as having “bridal airs.”
How is the caftan? It is a long tunic, usually with wide sleeves and an open neckline, leaving room to show off a large, already set collar. Usually it has an ‘evasé’ cut with a wide skirt that defines the waist, but it can also have a narrow, empire, smooth or princess cut, the latter especially in wedding dresses. It can be found in almost every fabric; most are made of silk, cotton, muslin, mobra, twill, velvet and tulle, although this too changes every year according to fashion.
Two of the fundamental elements are ‘laakayad’ and ‘sfifa’, which divide the dress vertically and symmetrically down the middle. ‘Laakayad’ are thread knots that sometimes serve as buttons, they are hand made by specialist people and can be made of different materials with gold, silver or silk thread being very common. On the sides of ‘laakayad’ is ‘sfifa’, a kind of trimming or seam covering, also made by hand and with silk threads and other materials, some even have gemstones or sequins.
Once the fabrics, cuts and essential components are chosen, the embroideries arrive. “I choose the prints, the stones, even the techniques and threads to equip each piece,” reveals this Cartagena-based stylist. Moroccan embroidery has a long tradition and value in the crafts of the neighboring country. “There are too many kinds,” he notes. The most famous are the ‘Fassy’ [de la emblemática ciudad de Fez] and the ‘Rbati’ [de la capital, Rabat]. The ‘Fassy’ is an embroidery with counted threads (it used to be drawn on a canvas canvas), a double-sided stitch characterized by the very clear definition of its drawings with very fine threads. They usually represent geometric motifs.
In Fez and Meknes, there is also a technique called “chbika,” a needle lace with knots, stretching, thinning and grouping threads to create “precious lace,” he describes. The ‘Rbati’ is inspired by nature – tree leaves and flowers – and is most often used in wedding dresses. Throughout the geography of the country, we can find ‘Randa’, ‘Sellane’ or ‘Darss’ embroideries. “Moroccan women are the ones in charge of this part. They usually specialize in one of the specific techniques and improve with the introduction of stones, pearls, sequins and other components, in addition to threads,” she explains. Because of all the manual work involved, each kaftan can take up to three to four months to complete. And for that same reason, “each is a unique piece,” he points out.
There are numerous kaftan styles, one of the variants being Takchita. It consists of two or more kaftans superimposed, creating a voluminous suit with a very long train. In this case, the first caftan is usually quite plain, with little embroidery and sometimes sleeveless to facilitate movement. The second piece is usually the most visible and the heaviest because of the lace and gems. In the case of a third layer, it would be made of a fine and transparent fabric, giving a majestic touch. “The more beautiful and bigger the caftan, the more luxurious it symbolizes,” says Ziana Afrah Al Hanae.
The models and designs of kaftans also depend on the cities. In the north, in Tangier and Tetouan, lies ‘Chedda Chamalia’; It is one of the few dresses that implies that the woman’s head is covered with a traditional tablecloth historically used by the women of these coastal cities and for wearing a very large and special crown. It is characterized by the cascade of pearls and gold covering the bride’s entire chest, down to the waist. In Fez, there is the Joher dress; in Rabat, the Touqida; in Oujda, the Karakou, similar to one of the traditional Algerian dresses due to the proximity of this city to the border. There are many more.
The term kaftan was used to name various garments from Ottoman times to the present day and this makes it difficult to determine its origin. During the Ottoman Empire (1299-1923), the costumes of the sultans were called kaftans, an extensive exhibition of which can be seen at the Topkapı Museum in Istanbul (Turkey). This empire never gained control over Morocco, which is why the Moroccan caftan is considered “native and unique” thanks to the Moroccan artisan technique that made it into a feminine garment. In Morocco, it is estimated to have originated during the time of the Marinid Sultanate (1244-1465) and was a suit for men during the Saadi dynasty (1549 to 1659).
Source: La Verdad
I am David Jackson, a highly experienced professional in the news industry. I have been working as an author at Today Times Live for over 10 years, and specialize in covering the entertainment section. My expertise lies in writing engaging stories that capture readers’ attention and deliver timely information about the latest developments.
