He was the first person to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders – or was he? Reinhold Messner was stripped of his world record in September. But now there was a surprising turn of events…
The trigger for the original withdrawal was the Himalayan chronicler Eberhard Jurgalski. He had calculated that many record mountain climbers returned before reaching the ‘real peaks’.
Explosive revelation
The explosive revelation also had consequences for Reinhold Messner. According to research, on his Annapurna climb he was 65 meters and five meters away from the real summit. Thus, he lost the world record in the last edition of the Guinness Book of Records, according to which he was the first person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders in the world. After the real eight-thousanders were reclassified, Messner was no longer on all 14, but “only” on 13 eight-thousanders.
Messner responded to the fuss to the German news agency: “Jurgalski has no idea. He’s not an expert. He simply confused the mountain. Of course we reached the top.” What followed was a shitstorm against Jurgalski.
Now, however, there has been a surprising turnaround, both at Jurgalski and on the Guinness website. Jurgalski rowed back on Facebook on Monday (see post below).
“Translation error”
He writes that there is a translation error. The German-language press “did not correctly translate the English word ‘Legacy’ (legacy, appreciation) used in the original press release, but mistranslated it as ‘obsolete’ (obsolete, was immediately ‘removed’).” However, that was far from what was meant. “It should have been clear that neither 8000ers.com nor Guinness wanted – or could – revoke these titles,” Jurgalski further explains. The findings are merely “well-thought-out suggestions.”
“Historical recognition table”
Today, Messner is still listed on the Jurgalski website in a ‘historical recognition table’ as the first alpinist to climb all 14 eight-thousanders – and he therefore remains the king of mountaineers. “Finally, we would like to conclude that everything in this long process was well-intentioned and that there was never any intention to rewrite history or even cancel historical progress,” Jurgalski’s statement said.
Viesturs or Messner?
In the future there will be a separate list for top modern collectors, the “New 14-8K Collectors Era Table”. Only mountain climbers who have demonstrably been to the highest point will be accepted. The American Ed Viesturs (64) is currently in first place. Meaning: Actually there are two record holders. Messner for the traditional, Viesturs for the modern alpinists.
The data has also been revised on the Guinness website, the “Spiegel” reported. Jurgalski hopes that tempers in the mountain world will now calm down again – and that Messner’s criticism will also cease.
Source: Krone
I am Wallace Jones, an experienced journalist. I specialize in writing for the world section of Today Times Live. With over a decade of experience, I have developed an eye for detail when it comes to reporting on local and global stories. My passion lies in uncovering the truth through my investigative skills and creating thought-provoking content that resonates with readers worldwide.
